Last night we kicked off the field school at a quaint pub
near the bay in Quidi Vidi. The room was filled with eclectic knickknacks – not
a bare wall in the house -, sea shanti folk tunes filled the air, and a
charismatic Newfoundlander named Linda welcomed us not only into her pub, but into
her home – sharing stories about her life, beliefs, and art. It was a perfect
prelude to the field school and a great introduction to the community as whole.
Linda's Pub. Her sign reads: "Linda's Stories, Beers & Wood Burning Stoves |
This morning, John Mannion, a historical cultural geographer
of Newfoundland demography, shared with us in detail the modern and historical
cultural landscape of Quidi Vidi – a 400-year period, especially rich in the
tradition of jigging for cod. Uninhabited by indigenous peoples nearing the 16th
century, Quidi Vidi would become a seasonal point of resources for the larger
transatlantic region – bringing in fisherman from Great Britain, France, Spain,
Ireland, and New England. The community’s landscape has transformed drastically
over the centuries but the scenic old world charm and traditional maritime
culture is still what makes Quidi Vidi so attractive.
The Gut of Quidi Vidi Harbor |
After lunch we walked the village, Mannion shared with us
some of the historically significant sites and introduced us to some great
members of the community- all of whom to which I look forward to becoming more
formally acquainted.
After our classes ended for the day, Kayla and I explored
the village. Climbing the massive rocks that surround the bay we were able to
capture a few picturesque shots of Quidi Vidi.
Christine overlooking Quidi Vidi Village |
We also met Eric Snellgrove and his grandson Ethan who
showed us their potato garden, and jigging equipment, which was stored in a
shed Snellgrove had built adjacent to his garden. Although we did not have the
opportunity to visit his home, which is the oldest restored home in Quidi Vidi,
he did give us a tour of his cellar where the original stonewalls still stand.
We plan on visiting again soon and perhaps receiving my first jigging lesson
ever (since Kayla is already an old hand).
Eric Snellgrove and his great grandson Ethan standing in front of his potato garden |
The door leading into Snellgrove's Cellar |
As we turned toward the plantation (this is where the
majority of our lectures are held) we saw Johnny Barnes standing on his ladder out
side his home. We approached him, and he and his wife, Anne, warmly invited us
to their backyard. Their yard runs parallel to a stream and overlooks the harbor. During
our conversation, Johnny sat in his comfy armchair, which is interestingly
placed in a shed (A shed he made with his own hands) and spoke about Quidi Vidi
with warmth and nostalgia. He shared with us his hopes that Quidi Vidi would be
preserved and its rich history along with it.
JohnnyBarnes sitting inside his shed |
Johnny and Anne Barnes with their sweet pup |
We couldn’t have hoped for a better day.
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